A Visit to McCloudganj, home of the Dalai Lama

Not recommended for the faint of heart. This drive to Dharamsala is a killer journey of 12 hours if you have good drivers who know the way. I have learned to hire vehicles and drivers from McCloudganj. They drive to Srinigar, sleep over, and then we have an early start with drivers who know the roads. We head out at 7am in 4 wheel drive vehicles.
We begin on nice paved mountain roads that twist and turn through the Himalayas. Hopefully you don't get behind an army convoy like we did the last trip.
The roads begin to deteriorate around Jammu. They soon turn to gravel, shale, dirt, with waterfalls spilling onto the roads, and sheer drops that take some a bit of getting used to. Don't expect good facilities for those necessary toilet stops. Tissues and handy wipes are a must on these journeys.
You will be stopped a couple of times to have your passports inspected, checked for current visas, so have them handy. They want to know who you are, where you come from, and what you do for work. It is best to send 1 person from the party, who knows everyone's details, with all of the passports, it moves more quickly.
We pass through small and smaller villages with shops to buy cold water and soft drinks.
If you are a cricketer you will find apparently the best bats made of willow sold all along the road near Phalgam. Also in this area pure saffron can be found in stalls. The purple crocus flower grows in fields along the road, and is harvested in October.
We fight for the right of the road as Henna bearded nomads with their families appear around corners with herds of sheep, goats, water buffalo, cattle, and a few dogs.
Once again, as we arrive at our destination, everyone thought it was a real adventure and worth the journey.
We actually travel further up the mountain to spend our time in McCloudganj, known as "Little Tibet", and situated at 7,200 feet. It is where the refugees arrive as they flee Tibet. This is the home of the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan gov't in exile.
My 3rd visit was the first time the Dalai Lama was in residence, but not taking visitors. Richard Gere had just left, staying at Chonor House, the same hotel we use.
Speaking to the locals about the Dali Lama they all say even if they can't see him, they appreciate that his presence can be felt by everyone, and they all benefit from his residence.
Chonor House is the only place to stay in McCloudganj in my opinion. The hotel has 10 rooms and a suite, and is owned by the organization headed by the Dalai Lama. You must book far in advance if you want to experience this lovely establishment. Each room is different to the next with beautiful murals of Tibetan life on the walls.
The terrace where we always have breakfast and sometimes dinner, hangs on the edge of a mountain and faces the nearby Temple and Monastery.
The staff is amazingly calm and serene and a real pleasure. There is a lovely comfortable library for guests to use. A small internet cafe for guests. The peace and tranquility is wonderful.
We always see the Karmapa, head of a different Buddhist linage, who resides in a monastery down in Dharamsala. He also escaped at a young age and was welcomed into India. He gives blessings to visitors 2-3 times each week. Tenzin Palmo's nunnery is also in the area.
McCloundganj is a wonderful small hilly town/village with very steep narrow roads all round and through it. We enjoy meandering around, exploring the shops, talking to locals, having a drink in small open terraced coffee/tea shops.
The Tibetan refugees who live here are extremely friendly and many speak very good english. The streets are always full of red robed monks and nuns going about their daily business of living.
One day I got lost from the group. As I sat trying to re-trace my steps an elderly nun sat down and began speaking to me asking if I was lost, where I came from, and how did I like McClouganj.
Great, and very reasonable shopping at the Children's shop. All profits go to support the orphanage run by the Dalai Lama's organization. Norbulingka institute is in Dharamsala. You will find a beautiful temple, art gallery, and studios where the Tibetan youth are learning Tibetan arts and crafts so they will be preserved for future generations.
We spent evenings watching a variety of terrific documentaries in basement theaters.
I saw a sign for Tibetan massage and decided to try it out. It is an interesting combo with a lot of deep tissue and energy work. The in house massage therapist at Chonor House is an amazing healer. I suggest you book him on arrival if you want the experience. I understand he works on Richard Gere and is great friends with him.
Loads of western food is available. We enjoyed very authentic Italian. Nick's terrace restaurant is a slowed down place with great banana pancakes and good pizza.
There is even a place for that major chocolate overload.
The monks at the Kamapa's monastery make some great "momo's" which is a veggie filled dumpling. Reminded me of "pot stickers" from the Chinese restaurants in San Francisco.
There is a real mixture of western and eastern culture here.
I learned on my 2nd trip that we can catch an overnight train to Delhi from a town 3 hours away, instead of that long drive back to Srinigar and a flight to Dehli.
Gives us another afternoon in McCloudganj too.
The food of India changes as you travel. Different focus on spices, chili and the use of yogurt. So far I believe my favorite is Rajasthani cooking. It is a nice compliment of spices, not too hot, and great sauces made with a lot of yogurt.
Tandoori ovens and plenty of buttered "nan" bread. Black dal was new to me, having only experienced brown, yellow and red lentils. The flavor is distinct and I do believe my favorite now.
Ayurvedic products can be found all over India, but in particular Rajasthan and Kerela, where they teach the various medical courses. There are several spas and clinics you can stay in for days or weeks.
That hard to find Neem oil, and a variety of special essential oils like attars and absolutes can be found in many cities. Attars are oils captured in pure Sandalwood oil. The best is from Mysore in the south of India. There is nothing like pure Indian Rose and Jasmine essential oils. They are a fraction of the price you will pay outside of India.
As you can see India continues to fascinate me. I am heading south to Goa and Kerela in January 2010. I plan to do a cooking class to see the differences in the food of the south.
I'll update you on my return.