Tuesday, December 15, 2009

We arrive in Kashmir

When we arrive at Srinigar airport we are greeted by my old friend Anthony, my guide of 17 years ago. After hugs and plenty of tears he gathered us up and took us to the houseboats on Dal Lake where my great old friend Rasool was waiting for us.
Rasool's family has owned and operated these houseboats for many years.
Every detail is organized and arrangements made to ensure a wonderful 5 days.
Houseboats were another destination for the British during those hot summers. When they all left the country the houseboats remained, and they became a thriving business for tourists.
There are many new ones that have been added to the lake, but the design is the same, the wood is the same, only the interior decor is unique to each houseboat.
Rose gardens are planted on tiny pieces of land between houseboats and floating veggie gardens grow everything imaginable.
The bird life is abundant with beautiful Kingfishers poised on tree stumps.
This is truly a mountain paradise. It is far cleaner than the rest of India where the constant litter does get to one after awhile.
Srinigar is in a valley 1 1/2 miles high surrounded by the snow covered Himalayas.
We did a day trip to Sonnemarg which is at 7,500 feet. The drive hugged a snow run-off river that was icy just to look at, and there was still plenty of snow on the ground. The villages along the way were just begining their spring thaw. As usual we met herds of goats, and sheep who refused to share the road.
The air gets thin at this altitude, so we had to slow the walking down considerably.
On another day we drove a differnt direction into the mountians to Gulmarg, which sets at 8,500 feet. A variety of pine trees cover the mountain sides, you would never imagine this to be India. Soon we arrive in another valley blanketed with white and yellow daffodils, a ski resort in winter and a golf course in summer.
Phalgam, at 6,500 feet is the kick off point for trekking in the Himalayas, something I did 21 years ago. Ponies and ponie men, called Sherpas, hire on for an adventure of a lifetime.
You follow the Litter river to about 13,000 feet and if you so desire you can continue from this base camp to much higher elevations.
Below in the town you can hire ponies for short rides or go whitewater rafting down the Litter river. Fly-fishing is quite a popular sport here along this raging river. My friend Rasool caught a 7kg. German Brown Trout while I was staying with his family a few years ago. On another day he returned with a cooler box full of trout...what a feast we had.
Days can be spent on the houseboats or taking shakara rides around the lake. A shakara is a gondola type boat that carries you to shore or around the lake.
If you want to shop the goods are literally brought to your door. If you love carpets, and especially silk ones, you have arrived in carpet heaven. Each carpet is made by families in the valley. The handmade papier mache is beautifully painted and varnished to perfection. Suede bags, hats and jackets, and real Pashminas are available in a variety of colours and qualities.

1 comment:

  1. hey Joanna.. I also started blogging recently and have subscribed to blogspot a well
    http://gaby866-tastytreats.blogspot.com/

    check it out.. I am determined to in the next year or so write a cookbook with a difference so am "practicing" here .... :)

    ReplyDelete