Not recommended for the faint of heart. This drive to Dharamsala is a killer journey of 12 hours if you have good drivers who know the way. I have learned to hire vehicles and drivers from McCloudganj. They drive to Srinigar, sleep over, and then we have an early start with drivers who know the roads. We head out at 7am in 4 wheel drive vehicles.
We begin on nice paved mountain roads that twist and turn through the Himalayas. Hopefully you don't get behind an army convoy like we did the last trip.
The roads begin to deteriorate around Jammu. They soon turn to gravel, shale, dirt, with waterfalls spilling onto the roads, and sheer drops that take some a bit of getting used to. Don't expect good facilities for those necessary toilet stops. Tissues and handy wipes are a must on these journeys.
You will be stopped a couple of times to have your passports inspected, checked for current visas, so have them handy. They want to know who you are, where you come from, and what you do for work. It is best to send 1 person from the party, who knows everyone's details, with all of the passports, it moves more quickly.
We pass through small and smaller villages with shops to buy cold water and soft drinks.
If you are a cricketer you will find apparently the best bats made of willow sold all along the road near Phalgam. Also in this area pure saffron can be found in stalls. The purple crocus flower grows in fields along the road, and is harvested in October.
We fight for the right of the road as Henna bearded nomads with their families appear around corners with herds of sheep, goats, water buffalo, cattle, and a few dogs.
Once again, as we arrive at our destination, everyone thought it was a real adventure and worth the journey.
We actually travel further up the mountain to spend our time in McCloudganj, known as "Little Tibet", and situated at 7,200 feet. It is where the refugees arrive as they flee Tibet. This is the home of the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan gov't in exile.
My 3rd visit was the first time the Dalai Lama was in residence, but not taking visitors. Richard Gere had just left, staying at Chonor House, the same hotel we use.
Speaking to the locals about the Dali Lama they all say even if they can't see him, they appreciate that his presence can be felt by everyone, and they all benefit from his residence.
Chonor House is the only place to stay in McCloudganj in my opinion. The hotel has 10 rooms and a suite, and is owned by the organization headed by the Dalai Lama. You must book far in advance if you want to experience this lovely establishment. Each room is different to the next with beautiful murals of Tibetan life on the walls.
The terrace where we always have breakfast and sometimes dinner, hangs on the edge of a mountain and faces the nearby Temple and Monastery.
The staff is amazingly calm and serene and a real pleasure. There is a lovely comfortable library for guests to use. A small internet cafe for guests. The peace and tranquility is wonderful.
We always see the Karmapa, head of a different Buddhist linage, who resides in a monastery down in Dharamsala. He also escaped at a young age and was welcomed into India. He gives blessings to visitors 2-3 times each week. Tenzin Palmo's nunnery is also in the area.
McCloundganj is a wonderful small hilly town/village with very steep narrow roads all round and through it. We enjoy meandering around, exploring the shops, talking to locals, having a drink in small open terraced coffee/tea shops.
The Tibetan refugees who live here are extremely friendly and many speak very good english. The streets are always full of red robed monks and nuns going about their daily business of living.
One day I got lost from the group. As I sat trying to re-trace my steps an elderly nun sat down and began speaking to me asking if I was lost, where I came from, and how did I like McClouganj.
Great, and very reasonable shopping at the Children's shop. All profits go to support the orphanage run by the Dalai Lama's organization. Norbulingka institute is in Dharamsala. You will find a beautiful temple, art gallery, and studios where the Tibetan youth are learning Tibetan arts and crafts so they will be preserved for future generations.
We spent evenings watching a variety of terrific documentaries in basement theaters.
I saw a sign for Tibetan massage and decided to try it out. It is an interesting combo with a lot of deep tissue and energy work. The in house massage therapist at Chonor House is an amazing healer. I suggest you book him on arrival if you want the experience. I understand he works on Richard Gere and is great friends with him.
Loads of western food is available. We enjoyed very authentic Italian. Nick's terrace restaurant is a slowed down place with great banana pancakes and good pizza.
There is even a place for that major chocolate overload.
The monks at the Kamapa's monastery make some great "momo's" which is a veggie filled dumpling. Reminded me of "pot stickers" from the Chinese restaurants in San Francisco.
There is a real mixture of western and eastern culture here.
I learned on my 2nd trip that we can catch an overnight train to Delhi from a town 3 hours away, instead of that long drive back to Srinigar and a flight to Dehli.
Gives us another afternoon in McCloudganj too.
The food of India changes as you travel. Different focus on spices, chili and the use of yogurt. So far I believe my favorite is Rajasthani cooking. It is a nice compliment of spices, not too hot, and great sauces made with a lot of yogurt.
Tandoori ovens and plenty of buttered "nan" bread. Black dal was new to me, having only experienced brown, yellow and red lentils. The flavor is distinct and I do believe my favorite now.
Ayurvedic products can be found all over India, but in particular Rajasthan and Kerela, where they teach the various medical courses. There are several spas and clinics you can stay in for days or weeks.
That hard to find Neem oil, and a variety of special essential oils like attars and absolutes can be found in many cities. Attars are oils captured in pure Sandalwood oil. The best is from Mysore in the south of India. There is nothing like pure Indian Rose and Jasmine essential oils. They are a fraction of the price you will pay outside of India.
As you can see India continues to fascinate me. I am heading south to Goa and Kerela in January 2010. I plan to do a cooking class to see the differences in the food of the south.
I'll update you on my return.
Friday, December 18, 2009
Tuesday, December 15, 2009
We arrive in Kashmir
When we arrive at Srinigar airport we are greeted by my old friend Anthony, my guide of 17 years ago. After hugs and plenty of tears he gathered us up and took us to the houseboats on Dal Lake where my great old friend Rasool was waiting for us.
Rasool's family has owned and operated these houseboats for many years.
Every detail is organized and arrangements made to ensure a wonderful 5 days.
Houseboats were another destination for the British during those hot summers. When they all left the country the houseboats remained, and they became a thriving business for tourists.
There are many new ones that have been added to the lake, but the design is the same, the wood is the same, only the interior decor is unique to each houseboat.
Rose gardens are planted on tiny pieces of land between houseboats and floating veggie gardens grow everything imaginable.
The bird life is abundant with beautiful Kingfishers poised on tree stumps.
This is truly a mountain paradise. It is far cleaner than the rest of India where the constant litter does get to one after awhile.
Srinigar is in a valley 1 1/2 miles high surrounded by the snow covered Himalayas.
We did a day trip to Sonnemarg which is at 7,500 feet. The drive hugged a snow run-off river that was icy just to look at, and there was still plenty of snow on the ground. The villages along the way were just begining their spring thaw. As usual we met herds of goats, and sheep who refused to share the road.
The air gets thin at this altitude, so we had to slow the walking down considerably.
On another day we drove a differnt direction into the mountians to Gulmarg, which sets at 8,500 feet. A variety of pine trees cover the mountain sides, you would never imagine this to be India. Soon we arrive in another valley blanketed with white and yellow daffodils, a ski resort in winter and a golf course in summer.
Phalgam, at 6,500 feet is the kick off point for trekking in the Himalayas, something I did 21 years ago. Ponies and ponie men, called Sherpas, hire on for an adventure of a lifetime.
You follow the Litter river to about 13,000 feet and if you so desire you can continue from this base camp to much higher elevations.
Below in the town you can hire ponies for short rides or go whitewater rafting down the Litter river. Fly-fishing is quite a popular sport here along this raging river. My friend Rasool caught a 7kg. German Brown Trout while I was staying with his family a few years ago. On another day he returned with a cooler box full of trout...what a feast we had.
Days can be spent on the houseboats or taking shakara rides around the lake. A shakara is a gondola type boat that carries you to shore or around the lake.
If you want to shop the goods are literally brought to your door. If you love carpets, and especially silk ones, you have arrived in carpet heaven. Each carpet is made by families in the valley. The handmade papier mache is beautifully painted and varnished to perfection. Suede bags, hats and jackets, and real Pashminas are available in a variety of colours and qualities.
Rasool's family has owned and operated these houseboats for many years.
Every detail is organized and arrangements made to ensure a wonderful 5 days.
Houseboats were another destination for the British during those hot summers. When they all left the country the houseboats remained, and they became a thriving business for tourists.
There are many new ones that have been added to the lake, but the design is the same, the wood is the same, only the interior decor is unique to each houseboat.
Rose gardens are planted on tiny pieces of land between houseboats and floating veggie gardens grow everything imaginable.
The bird life is abundant with beautiful Kingfishers poised on tree stumps.
This is truly a mountain paradise. It is far cleaner than the rest of India where the constant litter does get to one after awhile.
Srinigar is in a valley 1 1/2 miles high surrounded by the snow covered Himalayas.
We did a day trip to Sonnemarg which is at 7,500 feet. The drive hugged a snow run-off river that was icy just to look at, and there was still plenty of snow on the ground. The villages along the way were just begining their spring thaw. As usual we met herds of goats, and sheep who refused to share the road.
The air gets thin at this altitude, so we had to slow the walking down considerably.
On another day we drove a differnt direction into the mountians to Gulmarg, which sets at 8,500 feet. A variety of pine trees cover the mountain sides, you would never imagine this to be India. Soon we arrive in another valley blanketed with white and yellow daffodils, a ski resort in winter and a golf course in summer.
Phalgam, at 6,500 feet is the kick off point for trekking in the Himalayas, something I did 21 years ago. Ponies and ponie men, called Sherpas, hire on for an adventure of a lifetime.
You follow the Litter river to about 13,000 feet and if you so desire you can continue from this base camp to much higher elevations.
Below in the town you can hire ponies for short rides or go whitewater rafting down the Litter river. Fly-fishing is quite a popular sport here along this raging river. My friend Rasool caught a 7kg. German Brown Trout while I was staying with his family a few years ago. On another day he returned with a cooler box full of trout...what a feast we had.
Days can be spent on the houseboats or taking shakara rides around the lake. A shakara is a gondola type boat that carries you to shore or around the lake.
If you want to shop the goods are literally brought to your door. If you love carpets, and especially silk ones, you have arrived in carpet heaven. Each carpet is made by families in the valley. The handmade papier mache is beautifully painted and varnished to perfection. Suede bags, hats and jackets, and real Pashminas are available in a variety of colours and qualities.
Monday, December 14, 2009
Moving through India
The Taj Mahal surpasses expectations, you can not fully describe it; you must experience it. The Taj, the Red Fort and the marble factory are the highlights of the rather smelly city of Agra.
10th century sculptures at the temples of Khajuraho are well preserved and set in lovely gardens overflowing with bouganvilla. They are both exotic and erotic, surely the models for the Kama Sutra. In fact all of the vendors sell small books of the Kama Sutra in several languages.
Varanasi is considered the most holy of cities on the Ganges, with temples sliding onto her shore, some tilting very near the water's edge. At dawn we are rowed along the ghats (steps into the water) to observe the ritual bathing that begins each morning at dawn. Cremation sites are situated at one end, with fires burning around the clock. No photos please.
Many believe if you die in Varanasi you break the cycle of death and re-birth. Many old people come here to await their passing, living in simple hostels with their families who care for them.
Nearby, at Sarnath, is where the Buddha gave his first sermon under the Bodhi tree.
At the top of the Ganges is Haridwar, another sacred and holy place for Hindus. It is one of the 4 places one must visit before dying. No meat or alcohol can be found within this city.
The festival of light, held on the shores of the Ganges, is exciting every night of the year. We took part giving and getting blessings. Red cotton string is tied around your wrist while the holy man chants in Hindi, and you try to repeat it. A smear of red on your forehead and the blessing is complete. Now to add your banana leaf basket filled with flowers and a candle to the flotilla moving quickly down the Ganges.
We stayed in another Haveli, the Hari Ganga right on the Ganges with a bathing beach. The water here flows rapidly and can be dangerous to swim in. Several women took the dip at 7am with the Holy men nearby.
Rishikesh is also set along the Ganges a few miles up stream. You find a very rapid current here which is great for river rafting. Rishikesh is where the Beatles and several "famous" people learned meditation in the TM style with the Maharishi.
It is a great place to chill out, possibly stay in an ashram. You can learn to meditate, do yoga, and eat pure vegitarian food for reasonable prices.
An overnight train ride from Delhi to Darjeeling on the 1st class Rajdhani Express is a unique experience. Three meals per day, teas, and snacks all served on chinaware. When the train stopped at stations our butler jumped off and bought us cold beers, juice, and soft drinks.
Darjeeling, resting between Sikkim and Nepal, is one of the many hill stations created by the British during the time of the Raj. The extreme heat of summers was not well tolerated by these people used to a cool climate.
Tea was planted and Darjeeling became famous for it's tea crops. We visited a tea plantation and learned which leaves are used for white, green and black tea. I did a white tea tasting in a tea shop in town, and there is a vast difference.
Before dawn, at 4am, we head up Tiger Hill to watch the sunrise over the Himalayas. If you are lucky, Everest appears through the cloud.
10th century sculptures at the temples of Khajuraho are well preserved and set in lovely gardens overflowing with bouganvilla. They are both exotic and erotic, surely the models for the Kama Sutra. In fact all of the vendors sell small books of the Kama Sutra in several languages.
Varanasi is considered the most holy of cities on the Ganges, with temples sliding onto her shore, some tilting very near the water's edge. At dawn we are rowed along the ghats (steps into the water) to observe the ritual bathing that begins each morning at dawn. Cremation sites are situated at one end, with fires burning around the clock. No photos please.
Many believe if you die in Varanasi you break the cycle of death and re-birth. Many old people come here to await their passing, living in simple hostels with their families who care for them.
Nearby, at Sarnath, is where the Buddha gave his first sermon under the Bodhi tree.
At the top of the Ganges is Haridwar, another sacred and holy place for Hindus. It is one of the 4 places one must visit before dying. No meat or alcohol can be found within this city.
The festival of light, held on the shores of the Ganges, is exciting every night of the year. We took part giving and getting blessings. Red cotton string is tied around your wrist while the holy man chants in Hindi, and you try to repeat it. A smear of red on your forehead and the blessing is complete. Now to add your banana leaf basket filled with flowers and a candle to the flotilla moving quickly down the Ganges.
We stayed in another Haveli, the Hari Ganga right on the Ganges with a bathing beach. The water here flows rapidly and can be dangerous to swim in. Several women took the dip at 7am with the Holy men nearby.
Rishikesh is also set along the Ganges a few miles up stream. You find a very rapid current here which is great for river rafting. Rishikesh is where the Beatles and several "famous" people learned meditation in the TM style with the Maharishi.
It is a great place to chill out, possibly stay in an ashram. You can learn to meditate, do yoga, and eat pure vegitarian food for reasonable prices.
An overnight train ride from Delhi to Darjeeling on the 1st class Rajdhani Express is a unique experience. Three meals per day, teas, and snacks all served on chinaware. When the train stopped at stations our butler jumped off and bought us cold beers, juice, and soft drinks.
Darjeeling, resting between Sikkim and Nepal, is one of the many hill stations created by the British during the time of the Raj. The extreme heat of summers was not well tolerated by these people used to a cool climate.
Tea was planted and Darjeeling became famous for it's tea crops. We visited a tea plantation and learned which leaves are used for white, green and black tea. I did a white tea tasting in a tea shop in town, and there is a vast difference.
Before dawn, at 4am, we head up Tiger Hill to watch the sunrise over the Himalayas. If you are lucky, Everest appears through the cloud.
Sunday, December 13, 2009
A Journey to India
It had been years since I last visited India. I made 3 trips in the late 80's from San Francisco, and became one of the many who fell in love with India. I had been asked many times if I would consider a tour to India, so I decided to give it some thought.
I contacted my friend Rasool in Kashmir asking if he could help with the logistics, he said he would do Kashmir, and recommended a friend in Delhi who was well respected in the travel business. Raj has been terrific over the years bringing in the best prices by comparison, yet not skimping on quality.
I placed advertisments to entice others to join me on a real adventure. Why I attracted another group of women I have no idea, not many men even inquired. Fourteen of us, many of my regular women, from Cape Town, Durban, Berkeley, California, Seattle, Washington, and Pennsylvania connected in Delhi.
India offers the exotic, the magical, the mystical, and the spiritual for all who seek. You take what you need, and leave the rest.
You often hear that it is so colourful, beautiful, exciting, stimulating, exotic, thought provoking, exhausting, hot, dusty, dirty, and wonderful. You love it or you hate it. India changes people-she is a real leveller. She forces you to focus and be in the moment. You will never look at the world the same after a journey to India.
We begin our journey in Delhi, a big city (16 million) full of wonderful architecture, lush garden parks, and the lovliest flower filled roundabouts. We have a quick look around, visiting Chandi Chowk in old Delhi, pay our respects to Ghandi, and headed off by train to Rajasthan to explore Jaisalmer, and her honey coloured Haveli's in this fortress town in the desert.
I believe the best thing to do after a long train ride is to have a massage. The hotel's Ayurvedic massage therapists pampered many of us our first afternoon.
I had been hearing stories of Jaisalmer and it's beauty for over 20 years from fellow India travelers. It is not an easy destination to arrive at, but so worth the journey. It is on the southern border of Paskistan, on the ancient silk route from Persia and Kashmir. The wealth of the area came and still comes from trading. The Haveli's (3 story homes) were built by wealthy merchants and resemble honeycomb palaces.
There are several beautiful Jain temples you may visit. If you enjoy riding camels there is a late afternoon ride into the Great Tar Desert.
Rajasthan is known for it's bright colours and Jaipur is one of it's exceptional cities. The buildings are red and pink, the colour of the earth here. There are palaces of marble and mirrors. Piles of marigolds, rose, and jasmine necklaces, destined for the temples, are sold in the flower market. The scent consumes the air.
Elephants and camels are among the work force.
Men wear big turbans of red and of gold, and huge handle bar moustaches. Women wear the most beautiful jewel coloured saris, with sparkling bangles up both arms. Even the street sweepers, and the homeless women looked like princesses.
We stayed in a 19th century Haveli mansion decorated in period furniture.
A local gem healer came to the hotel to do individual readings, telling us the best gems and colours to wear for our well being.
There is a huge Ayurvedic school of medicine in Jaipur along with several massage centers. We were given a reference for one run by an Ayurvedic doctor, several of us indulged ourselves again. Shiradera (spelling?)is the slow dripping of oil onto the forehead. It is ment to release tension and rid you of headaches.
Riding up the steep hill to the Amber Fort on the backs of elephants was quite an unforgetable experience.
I contacted my friend Rasool in Kashmir asking if he could help with the logistics, he said he would do Kashmir, and recommended a friend in Delhi who was well respected in the travel business. Raj has been terrific over the years bringing in the best prices by comparison, yet not skimping on quality.
I placed advertisments to entice others to join me on a real adventure. Why I attracted another group of women I have no idea, not many men even inquired. Fourteen of us, many of my regular women, from Cape Town, Durban, Berkeley, California, Seattle, Washington, and Pennsylvania connected in Delhi.
India offers the exotic, the magical, the mystical, and the spiritual for all who seek. You take what you need, and leave the rest.
You often hear that it is so colourful, beautiful, exciting, stimulating, exotic, thought provoking, exhausting, hot, dusty, dirty, and wonderful. You love it or you hate it. India changes people-she is a real leveller. She forces you to focus and be in the moment. You will never look at the world the same after a journey to India.
We begin our journey in Delhi, a big city (16 million) full of wonderful architecture, lush garden parks, and the lovliest flower filled roundabouts. We have a quick look around, visiting Chandi Chowk in old Delhi, pay our respects to Ghandi, and headed off by train to Rajasthan to explore Jaisalmer, and her honey coloured Haveli's in this fortress town in the desert.
I believe the best thing to do after a long train ride is to have a massage. The hotel's Ayurvedic massage therapists pampered many of us our first afternoon.
I had been hearing stories of Jaisalmer and it's beauty for over 20 years from fellow India travelers. It is not an easy destination to arrive at, but so worth the journey. It is on the southern border of Paskistan, on the ancient silk route from Persia and Kashmir. The wealth of the area came and still comes from trading. The Haveli's (3 story homes) were built by wealthy merchants and resemble honeycomb palaces.
There are several beautiful Jain temples you may visit. If you enjoy riding camels there is a late afternoon ride into the Great Tar Desert.
Rajasthan is known for it's bright colours and Jaipur is one of it's exceptional cities. The buildings are red and pink, the colour of the earth here. There are palaces of marble and mirrors. Piles of marigolds, rose, and jasmine necklaces, destined for the temples, are sold in the flower market. The scent consumes the air.
Elephants and camels are among the work force.
Men wear big turbans of red and of gold, and huge handle bar moustaches. Women wear the most beautiful jewel coloured saris, with sparkling bangles up both arms. Even the street sweepers, and the homeless women looked like princesses.
We stayed in a 19th century Haveli mansion decorated in period furniture.
A local gem healer came to the hotel to do individual readings, telling us the best gems and colours to wear for our well being.
There is a huge Ayurvedic school of medicine in Jaipur along with several massage centers. We were given a reference for one run by an Ayurvedic doctor, several of us indulged ourselves again. Shiradera (spelling?)is the slow dripping of oil onto the forehead. It is ment to release tension and rid you of headaches.
Riding up the steep hill to the Amber Fort on the backs of elephants was quite an unforgetable experience.
Friday, December 11, 2009
Sacred Music Festival
We entered Fez in the afternoon, a very different vibe in the oldest medival city in the world. We headed for the old Medina to locate our Riad.
We thought our place in Marrakech was wonderful, then we walked into our home in Fez. The mosaic tilework is awesome. Fez is the blue city, it is apparent in the tile work on the floors and 1/2 way up the walls in many Riads. This is a great place to buy ceramica.
The Sacred Music Festival, run by Sufis, is held in Fez each year from late May into June for 10 days. It is not an old festival, about 15 years in existance.
I learned about it from a friend who fell so in love with Fez, she packed up her life and moved there permanently. She was a great help locating affordable Riads at festival time. She can be found at Fez Riads.com
She sent me the festival program, translated from French, which gave us a chnace to go through it and decide in advance what music we wanted to experience. Concerts ran every afternoon and evening. Each evening a huge free concert is held in a square for the locals who can't afford the price of a concert ticket.
I chose Ravi Shankar, and at 85 he could still play an amazing Sitar. There was beautiful Baroque played in the courtyard of the Batha museum under Barbery Oaks in the late afternoon. We enjoyed Senegalese music like that of Ishmail Lo, and ancient Indian and Japanese music and dance. Outside Fez are Roman ruins which were the backdrop for an all women's group singing acappella music of the mountains.
The medina in Marrakech was difficult to manoeuvre, but the Fez medina was a maze like no other. Had we not had a guide we'd still be trying to find our way out!
The food...let us not forget the food. Have you ever eaten a "Tagine"? It is a spicy stew made of chicken, beef, or lamb with preserved lemon rind, apricots or prunes, almonds, and olives. Olives are presented everywhere and every souk large or small has olive sellers. Huge green, medium sized green, black, and brown olives mixed with hot spices, mild spices, lemon rind, garlic, and for me the olive lover, a complete orgie of flavors.
Pigeon pie dusted in cinnamin and powdered sugar had a unique flavor, and a delicious experience. The food is spicy, but not necessarily hot spicy. Hererra soup means soup of the countryside. It is similar to a thick hearty minestroni with lots of cumin. Tammi's, sitting on the corner as you enter the medina, is an experience not to be missed. For great lamb burgers try The Clock, both in Fez.
The Fez medina has a wonderful honey section for you honey lovers.
On the coast you can sample a variety of fresh fish from the Mediterranean. The souks also sell all the dainty pastries made of nuts and pastes of almond, hazelnut, pistachio, and then there are the chocolates.
A walk through the food section of the Fez medina is an experience even if you don't love to cook.
For you lovers of Rose oil Morocco makes some of the best, and far cheaper than Indian or Bulgarian. It's available in many herbariums.
Argane oil has become famous due to the recent attention from the exclusive skin care companies in France and Switzerland. The French culinary world has toasted it and it reminds me of a blend of peanut and toasted sesame oils. You can buy pure cosmetic grade oil to take home, like I do, and add it to your face creams. Buy the soaps with Argane oil and feel the difference in you skin in only a short time.
It isn't cheap, but available to us.
Into the Rif mountains and the amazing blue city of Chefchouen. (Did you know mossies and flies don't like the colour and vibration of blue?)This small picturesque city nestled in the mountains became the home of Muslim immigrants and then the Jews who fled Spain in the 15th century.
The intensity of the blue in this city is mezmerizing. Every door is painted a different shade of blue. Often the walls, and sometimes even the paths in the medina are painted blue.
Another friend is on the coast south of Tangier in Asilah. He has restored a small Riad in the medina. After my group headed for home I headed there for a short visit. I spent my last days in Morocco eating Spanish influenced paella, fresh anchovies and sardines while basking under the clear African sky.
I found the Moroccan people easy and friendly. It is ment to be the most liberal of the Muslim countries. Maybe the influence of the Berbers, the French, or the expats who flock to Morocco's extotic cities. Whatever creates this feeling of ease I am pleased it exists.
Although we couldn't visit any mosques in Marrakech or Fez, we peeped through doorways and could see how beautiful they were. Never did any of us feel unsafe. We stayed in the medinas and wandered about without a problem in the evenings. I was pleased to discover how easy and safe it was for women to travel in Morocco.
We thought our place in Marrakech was wonderful, then we walked into our home in Fez. The mosaic tilework is awesome. Fez is the blue city, it is apparent in the tile work on the floors and 1/2 way up the walls in many Riads. This is a great place to buy ceramica.
The Sacred Music Festival, run by Sufis, is held in Fez each year from late May into June for 10 days. It is not an old festival, about 15 years in existance.
I learned about it from a friend who fell so in love with Fez, she packed up her life and moved there permanently. She was a great help locating affordable Riads at festival time. She can be found at Fez Riads.com
She sent me the festival program, translated from French, which gave us a chnace to go through it and decide in advance what music we wanted to experience. Concerts ran every afternoon and evening. Each evening a huge free concert is held in a square for the locals who can't afford the price of a concert ticket.
I chose Ravi Shankar, and at 85 he could still play an amazing Sitar. There was beautiful Baroque played in the courtyard of the Batha museum under Barbery Oaks in the late afternoon. We enjoyed Senegalese music like that of Ishmail Lo, and ancient Indian and Japanese music and dance. Outside Fez are Roman ruins which were the backdrop for an all women's group singing acappella music of the mountains.
The medina in Marrakech was difficult to manoeuvre, but the Fez medina was a maze like no other. Had we not had a guide we'd still be trying to find our way out!
The food...let us not forget the food. Have you ever eaten a "Tagine"? It is a spicy stew made of chicken, beef, or lamb with preserved lemon rind, apricots or prunes, almonds, and olives. Olives are presented everywhere and every souk large or small has olive sellers. Huge green, medium sized green, black, and brown olives mixed with hot spices, mild spices, lemon rind, garlic, and for me the olive lover, a complete orgie of flavors.
Pigeon pie dusted in cinnamin and powdered sugar had a unique flavor, and a delicious experience. The food is spicy, but not necessarily hot spicy. Hererra soup means soup of the countryside. It is similar to a thick hearty minestroni with lots of cumin. Tammi's, sitting on the corner as you enter the medina, is an experience not to be missed. For great lamb burgers try The Clock, both in Fez.
The Fez medina has a wonderful honey section for you honey lovers.
On the coast you can sample a variety of fresh fish from the Mediterranean. The souks also sell all the dainty pastries made of nuts and pastes of almond, hazelnut, pistachio, and then there are the chocolates.
A walk through the food section of the Fez medina is an experience even if you don't love to cook.
For you lovers of Rose oil Morocco makes some of the best, and far cheaper than Indian or Bulgarian. It's available in many herbariums.
Argane oil has become famous due to the recent attention from the exclusive skin care companies in France and Switzerland. The French culinary world has toasted it and it reminds me of a blend of peanut and toasted sesame oils. You can buy pure cosmetic grade oil to take home, like I do, and add it to your face creams. Buy the soaps with Argane oil and feel the difference in you skin in only a short time.
It isn't cheap, but available to us.
Into the Rif mountains and the amazing blue city of Chefchouen. (Did you know mossies and flies don't like the colour and vibration of blue?)This small picturesque city nestled in the mountains became the home of Muslim immigrants and then the Jews who fled Spain in the 15th century.
The intensity of the blue in this city is mezmerizing. Every door is painted a different shade of blue. Often the walls, and sometimes even the paths in the medina are painted blue.
Another friend is on the coast south of Tangier in Asilah. He has restored a small Riad in the medina. After my group headed for home I headed there for a short visit. I spent my last days in Morocco eating Spanish influenced paella, fresh anchovies and sardines while basking under the clear African sky.
I found the Moroccan people easy and friendly. It is ment to be the most liberal of the Muslim countries. Maybe the influence of the Berbers, the French, or the expats who flock to Morocco's extotic cities. Whatever creates this feeling of ease I am pleased it exists.
Although we couldn't visit any mosques in Marrakech or Fez, we peeped through doorways and could see how beautiful they were. Never did any of us feel unsafe. We stayed in the medinas and wandered about without a problem in the evenings. I was pleased to discover how easy and safe it was for women to travel in Morocco.
Sahara Desert Camp
As we passed small desert villages the houses were painted amazing shades of yellow, trimmed in every shade of blue, and clustered Kasbahs rested in valleys next to a stream. We arrived in Erfoud and the temperature must have been 42 degrees C. Omar had a friend who ran a hotel in town. It had pool, so off we went, no bathing suits, justs shorts and T shirts.
We arrived at our tented Berber camp in Merzouga in the late afternoon. The tents were covered in a fabric of woven camel hair. Festive rugs on the floor and camp cots furnished our new homes. A huge colourful tent housed the bar and restaurant where we enjoyed our meals at the edge of the largest sand dunes in the world at Erg Chebbi.
At sunset and sunrise people climbed up onto the camel of their choice and off into the desert they rode. Some even opted to spend the night far into the desert. I sat in the open air lounge and took pictures of the ever changing colours of these awesome dunes.
This is fossil country. We have seen the brownish gold ammonites from Madagascar, but the basalt and granite ones come from here. Trilobites and all sorts of other fossils can be purchased from several fossil workshops in the area.
Out of the desert and back into the mountains we drove. We passed Nomads living in tents, in the beautiful green valleys. There were little streams and rivers running in every direction. Fields of red poppies, and a huge splash of an iris blue flower with no name. A quick stop to buy freshly picked cherries, and back onto the road again.
The majesty of the High Atlas Mountains is home to the finest Cedarwood oil.
Cool cool air and then old growth Cypress and Cedarwood trees appeared. Were we still in Morocco with all of this cool fresh air and Alpine looking villages? Then the monkeys appeared along the roadside, and we knew we were still in Africa.
Fez and the Sacred Music Festival awaited us.
We arrived at our tented Berber camp in Merzouga in the late afternoon. The tents were covered in a fabric of woven camel hair. Festive rugs on the floor and camp cots furnished our new homes. A huge colourful tent housed the bar and restaurant where we enjoyed our meals at the edge of the largest sand dunes in the world at Erg Chebbi.
At sunset and sunrise people climbed up onto the camel of their choice and off into the desert they rode. Some even opted to spend the night far into the desert. I sat in the open air lounge and took pictures of the ever changing colours of these awesome dunes.
This is fossil country. We have seen the brownish gold ammonites from Madagascar, but the basalt and granite ones come from here. Trilobites and all sorts of other fossils can be purchased from several fossil workshops in the area.
Out of the desert and back into the mountains we drove. We passed Nomads living in tents, in the beautiful green valleys. There were little streams and rivers running in every direction. Fields of red poppies, and a huge splash of an iris blue flower with no name. A quick stop to buy freshly picked cherries, and back onto the road again.
The majesty of the High Atlas Mountains is home to the finest Cedarwood oil.
Cool cool air and then old growth Cypress and Cedarwood trees appeared. Were we still in Morocco with all of this cool fresh air and Alpine looking villages? Then the monkeys appeared along the roadside, and we knew we were still in Africa.
Fez and the Sacred Music Festival awaited us.
Marrakech.....
We had all heard stories of Marrakech and her endless labyrinth of souks. Carpet souk, food, ceramic, iron and the slippers in the leather souk that would tempt us all. Hand carved lemon wood kitchen utinsils are fantastic, and they fit easily down the side of our cases.
Place Jemma Fna is a delight. It is mandatory that you have a large glass of the best orange juice in the world, sold here from rolling kiosks. I was told that the harsh climate and scarce rain creates citrus that is so concentrated nothing can compare to the flavor. I completely agree.
In the evenings, once the sun sets, food stalls pop up everywhere as the snakes and monkeys head home after a hard day of working the crowds. If you feel adventurous you can go for the roasted goat's head being sold in several stalls.
There is fantastic people watching from the fringe of open air cafes that surround the square.
The Majorelle Gardens are not to be missed. French painter Jacques Majorelle fell in love with the light of Morocco. He created the gardens during his days of painting in Marrakech. French fashion designer Ives St. Laurent bought this property, restored it, and it is magnificent. Here you will find the most intense blues ever.
There is a small museum on the grounds with the most exquisite pieces I have ever seen. Robes of brocade, scarves, jewelry, knives and swords, old doors, rugs, camel blankets, all presented in the most tasteful setting.
The gift shop has a selected assortment of the finest items. The blue is a major focus here as well. The cafe has lovely iced things to cool you down and if that isn't enough the intermittent misters will.
After 5 days and nights in the exciting high energy of Marrakech we said our farewells and headed for the Sahara.
Get out the motion sickness pills, it is time to head over the High Atlas mountains.
Several of us were Aromatherapists, and others simply loved the scent of roses. The Valley of the Roses, in El Kelaa M'Gouna, is where the French come each year to harvest the roses and extract the oil for the French perfume industry. The roses grow here in hedges that meander around this village. Children line the roads selling necklaces of tiny rose buds that are so fragrant, and the scent lasted for months.
We spent 2 nights on a bluff overlooking an oasis in a very old mud brick Kasbah.
Some took long walks exploring some of the ruined Kasbahs in the area, others picked apricots, some swam in the shallow river that wound through the oasis, while others rested or read.
We drove out through the Dades Gorge and all of it's rose red splendor. The Todra Gorge was similar to the Swartburg Pass in South Africa with it's high walls, and a river running through it.
The entire area was planted out in Palmeries. We stopped and did a walk through one to discover what lay under this canopy of palm trees. There were women working the land, children playing, goats and cows roaming, all under cover of the palm trees making it much cooler than in the open desert.
Place Jemma Fna is a delight. It is mandatory that you have a large glass of the best orange juice in the world, sold here from rolling kiosks. I was told that the harsh climate and scarce rain creates citrus that is so concentrated nothing can compare to the flavor. I completely agree.
In the evenings, once the sun sets, food stalls pop up everywhere as the snakes and monkeys head home after a hard day of working the crowds. If you feel adventurous you can go for the roasted goat's head being sold in several stalls.
There is fantastic people watching from the fringe of open air cafes that surround the square.
The Majorelle Gardens are not to be missed. French painter Jacques Majorelle fell in love with the light of Morocco. He created the gardens during his days of painting in Marrakech. French fashion designer Ives St. Laurent bought this property, restored it, and it is magnificent. Here you will find the most intense blues ever.
There is a small museum on the grounds with the most exquisite pieces I have ever seen. Robes of brocade, scarves, jewelry, knives and swords, old doors, rugs, camel blankets, all presented in the most tasteful setting.
The gift shop has a selected assortment of the finest items. The blue is a major focus here as well. The cafe has lovely iced things to cool you down and if that isn't enough the intermittent misters will.
After 5 days and nights in the exciting high energy of Marrakech we said our farewells and headed for the Sahara.
Get out the motion sickness pills, it is time to head over the High Atlas mountains.
Several of us were Aromatherapists, and others simply loved the scent of roses. The Valley of the Roses, in El Kelaa M'Gouna, is where the French come each year to harvest the roses and extract the oil for the French perfume industry. The roses grow here in hedges that meander around this village. Children line the roads selling necklaces of tiny rose buds that are so fragrant, and the scent lasted for months.
We spent 2 nights on a bluff overlooking an oasis in a very old mud brick Kasbah.
Some took long walks exploring some of the ruined Kasbahs in the area, others picked apricots, some swam in the shallow river that wound through the oasis, while others rested or read.
We drove out through the Dades Gorge and all of it's rose red splendor. The Todra Gorge was similar to the Swartburg Pass in South Africa with it's high walls, and a river running through it.
The entire area was planted out in Palmeries. We stopped and did a walk through one to discover what lay under this canopy of palm trees. There were women working the land, children playing, goats and cows roaming, all under cover of the palm trees making it much cooler than in the open desert.
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